Why Fifty7Kind, Australian artisan brand, two new launches drew my gaze
Meet ZUCI & GURU and learn what they can do for you
New beauty launches might be popping up left, right and centre, but being a niche beauty brand has never been harder. The costs of everything are going up, the wait time is becoming longer, as logistics and climate change are impacting supply chains, retailers are dropping smaller brands, preferring to focus on large and well-known ones that are hyped-up on social media feeds thanks to large marketing budgets and the consumer is increasingly rationing beauty purchases. Never-the-less, some of those brands and their founders continue to innovate and slowly expand their product offering - and not because they are afraid of consumer boredom or retailer insistence that newness is needed.
I have written about Fifty7Kind in the past and plan to do a separate, ‘bonus’ post for my paid subscribers - if you are not one yet, maybe that will make you consider becoming one - with Gabrielle’s insightful answers to my questions about her two new product babies. But for now, let me introduce you to ZUCI and GURU.
Gabrielle is a type of woman who walks her own path, at her own pace, and does it with determination, but without alienating whoever observes her journey from a sideline. Driven by her passion for nature and not spoiling things in the process, by integrity and care for humanity, she shares many of her life’s moments on Instagram, yet remains somewhat mysterious in a curious kind of way. Having had the pleasure of conversations with her, I not only admire the way she runs her brand, I am always intrigued by what she is working on. ZUCI was a work in progress for a while, as another trait of Gabrielle’s is perfectionism, but a couple of months ago she launched this multi-use micro emulsion cleanser - for both skin and scalp - into the world. What is promises to do - rebalance skin and scalp, gently exfoliate, sooth and revitalise - it delivers.
My initial impression of ZUCI was tactile, as it arrived in a white and black paper packaging box that safely housed the glass bottle inside. The box itself also spotlights premium ingredients used - Schisandra berry, Gromwell Root ( I haven’t come across this ingredients before, so Gabrielle will share ingredient intel in my upcoming Q & A post for my paid subscribers ), Kiwi & Sapote fruits, Black cumin and Carrot root. You can trace your fingers across their names, enjoying the moment of soothing sensation underneath the fingertips - we all need a moment of tranquility on any given day….
Two things you need to do before you use ZUCI - always shake prior to using and do a patch test, prior to using it for the first time, as it has plants and actives that in rare cases one’s skin can react to. Better be safe, than sorry!
Now, how to use it on your face: dispense some of the oil on to your dry hands, then add water and watch the oil turn into milky emulsion that removes make-up and dirt from your skin - it also works quite efficiently on removing SPF - on those rare days in London lately, when the sun actually graces us with its elusive presence. If you like double cleansing, this cleanser works perfectly as a “double agent” and you can also use it as a “mini facial”, by cleansing the skin, then applying the cleanser again and letting your skin derive the benefits, before washing it off five to ten minutes later.
According to Gabriella, Fifty7Kind is one of the first skincare brand in the world and, definitely the first in Australia/Oceania region, to launch a product that was developed with innovative, green Microemulsion Technology. This technology allows the product to cleanse the skin and the scalp thoroughly, but without stripping down your skin’s natural microbiome. When it comes to using this cleanser on your face, it will help balance oil production, balance the skin, gently exfoliate and care for blemish-prone and sensitive skin as well, as it doesn’t contain essential oil.
Three ingredients I want to spotlight for skincare “geeks” among you, my readers. The Micro Algae was chosen for its repairative qualities and ability to balance skin’s barrier function, counteracting the negative effects of inflammatory responses and reducing skin and scalp irritations. Papaya fruit ferment helps to promote healthy cell turnover and support collagen production, as well as reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles thanks to papain enzyme. The same enzyme can help other skincare products absorb better, by removing dead skin cells and impurities from the skin's surface, and allowing skincare to penetrate deeper into the skin. And when it comes to the scalp, this ingredient helps to gently breakdown and digest large proteins that can accumulate on the surface of hair and scalp, acting as a safe means of removing product build up from hair strands. Last, but not least, a natural silicone alternative BIOPHYTOSEBUM®, which allows for fast absorption of active ingredients, unsaponifiables, along with essential fatty acids, which help skin feel soft and make hair feel silky.
My only slight niggle with ZUCI when it comes to skin is its scent. It is herbaceous, not overwhelming, but a little strong initially - somehow I don’t mind it when it comes to using it on my scalp. Scent is a very personal thing, be it in skincare or bodycare, so consider this just my little, personal side note on a page. Once you wash the product off, the skin feels clean and soft, but not tight or stripped - and the scent becomes truly secondary, fading into the background of an enjoyable cleansing experience.
I also asked Gabrielle about the scent & here is what she replied: “Aroma is so personal and one can go down a rabbit hole, trying to create an aroma to be pleasing to all - you can’t. The aroma is a sum of the formulation - you either like it or you don’t. I am very sensitive to aroma - to me ZUCI is a subtle, slightly fruit aroma, which intensifies when emulsified with water. I decided to avoid the use of essential oils, as I wanted ZUCI to be accessible to those wanting to avoid them for reasons of sensitivity and or pregnancy.”
I mentioned earlier that this cleanser was developed not just for the skin, but for the hair, but rather scalp as well. Once a week, set a few minutes aside in the evening, part your hair in equal sections and massage a few oil drops onto scalp and leave the product to work for 20-60 minutes. Then rinse the hair and scalp thoroughly, before washing the hair with your usual shampoo. Using conditioner afterwards is optional and I forego it on occasion when I use the micro emulsion cleanser on the scalp - but of course it depends on your hair type and condition of the hair. Another tip would be to apply a few drops of this product to your hair, mid-length, if your hair gets frizzy or lacks moisture and shine. According to Gabrielle this product also has in-built antioxidant & anti-breakage protection and I have become quite fond of using it, as my hair responded to the extra nourishment and feels less dry to the touch and slightly thicker, when pulled in a bun or ponytail.
ZUCI sums up Gabrielle’s approach to formulating and sustainability quite well - a product lovingly formulated, tirelessly tested and developed with multi-functionality when it comes to its regular use. One bottle and a product that is appreciated by the skin, the scalp and even fingers and toes - as yours truly sometimes applies a few drops to nails and even eyebrows.
Now, let’s shift our gaze to GURU, a bean stone gua sha, which if you don’t have one already, can be used on the face, neck and scalp. Based on the principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), it is sourced sustainably from crystallite Bian Stone that holds historical and cultural significance in ancient China, where it is used for medicinal and spiritual practices. This precious stone has smooth edges, which allows it to move over the skin in a smooth way that makes the experience both effective and enjoyable. When used on the scalp - and I have been using my jade Hayou method for a few years now and my daughter enjoys it too, when I use it on her head once week, it brings a multitude of benefits. It will improve - the circulation, which in turn will make your hair grow stronger over the coming months ( you can use it once a week, but if you do it two or three times a week, or even more, your nervous system will thank you for it as well, as Gabor Mate famously wrote in his book - the body keeps the score of your actions and emotions); - promote scalp health; - stimulate acupressure points all over your scalp & promote more effective detoxification.
The little paper two-page that accompanies the bian stone gua sha has detailed diagrams of movements, to help you use it correctly and stimulate correct points for maximum benefit - use the pointed tip to focus on specific areas of the neck, face and scalp and shift the accumulated tension out of your body and the ‘teeth’ when massaging the scalp. On the neck and jawline use the “u” shape, flat surface when using it under the eyes and the ‘mini comb edge” when using it on the forehead, eyebrows and mouth area. While I have been writing this post I have been using it on my face, scalp and neck to refresh my mind and help me focus - and listening to the sound it makes, as I moved it along my jawline felt particularly satisfactory! Just remember to apply a face oil to the skin first, as using it on the skin without a skincare product that provides the non-slip traction might not feel as ‘pleasing’ to the skin.
Just recently a teen daughter of a dear friend was asking whether she should buy a certain “toning’ tool for her skin, which prompted me to send multiple voice messages, explaining in detail why she shouldn’t be even looking at those gadgets - their expensiveness put aside - let alone considering using them on her skin until she is much older. I also added that using gua sha on her skin instead might be a good idea, as it improves the circulation, promotes better lymph circulation, enhances product absorption, releases the tension - you would be surprised how many children and adults hold tension in their jawline - makes skin look more radiant, and stimulates acupressure points that reduce stress and help restore the state of calm. Win-win all around, right? I also believe that it’s worth paying a little more for quality gua sha, meaning you can be sure it was sourced from a reliable source.
Helpfully, Fifty7Kind GURU gua sha not only has the instructions brochure, but comes in a cotton pouch to store it in and keeping it safe on your travels or between uses. Bian stone, like jade, is fragile, so try not to drop it - as it will most certainly break, when hitting the floor. I would also recommend washing it with soap and water between uses and ‘re-charging’ it in the daylight and moonlight during full moon. But that is just my little quirks .)
One more thing, before I sign off - beauty industry is sadly unsustainable and the more brands use ‘sustainability’, the less effective and true the message and engagement become. What I appreciate with Gabrielle’s brand messaging is that she does her best to improve the way she runs and does her business, focussing on sustainable sourcing of the ingredients of the highest quality, allowing her formulas to deliver maximum efficacy for her customers. Products are freshly made and not overproduced, responding to customer or retail natural demand and orders. Some brands scream about their efforts, others work tirelessly, fuelled by passion and internal compass to do good and make improvements alongside technological advances. Being a small brand is complicated, but it makes a brand nimble and more responsive to feedback - I also find them more personally invested and engaging with their customers. Let me know where your loyalties lie in that respect or what matters and informal your own skincare choices?
Thank you for this in-depth intro to anew brand. I will be checking it out!!
Thank you Galina for making the skin and scalp/hair time to try out ZUCI and GURU - your words, time and opinions are always appreciated and make the world a way more interesting and special place to be - Gabrielle