April Newness
travel the world through retail and skincare, dive into ancient Japan's history, read about soothing your nervous system - this month brings comfort unlike un-spring like weather
Reading about Olympic preparations in Paris makes me grateful that at least we don’t have constant gridlock in London, yet Paris for me is always full of love, history, curiosity & fascinating discoveries no matter where I turn my head. After closing the retail institution that was Colette & taking some time to reflect on the future, Sarah Andelman directed her talents into “Just An Idea” which is dedicated to art, collaborations and publishing - her bookish curation at Le Bon Marche is a marvel. Also in Paris, within a month or two, master of retail Adrian Joffe will be opening doors to DSM, which will offer unexpected retail experience with Rose bakery cafe, installations and creatives surprising and intriguing the visitors at every turn.
While British retail looks increasingly glum, I lift my spirits in bakeries and coffee houses dotted around London (admittedly not great for my waistline or cortisol levels, but seeking those pockets of pleasure is part of human nature, n’est-ce pas?) mercifully proving that creative spirit has not completely dimmed here. Hello Popham in Islington and their shop next door that will now also host pottery classes and possibly other events as well. However I continue to long for a beautiful physical retail space that will be intimate, surprising and unpredictable when it comes to fashion, culture and beauty. A place of conversations and lessons, a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, buzzing ideas, like-minded diversity from all corners of the world. A place to retreat and cocoon yourself, yet leave buzzing with ideas or potential for collaborations. Any place in London that fits this brief that you can recommend, I am all ears!
Next time you are in Soho, drop by IDEA Ltd book store. They have the loveliest and unassumingly stylish team, strong coffee (ask nicely!) and the most wonderful selection of books and magazines you will struggle to find elsewhere. I also have my eye on one of their baseball hats that have marvellous slogans, like “ I Don’t Work Here”, “One Night Only”, “Winona”, “Yoga Helps”, “Vegan Athlete” and “Sometimes”. Wonder how many “Spoilt Brats” they sold already….
A quick but important note: as this post is quite lengthy, it will be truncated in emails, so please click ‘view entire message’ or head to your Substack app to read the full version, so you don’t miss out on the most interesting bits!
RMS Beauty extends is skincare offering with not just one, but three new launches
One of the most fascinating things is to be on the journey alongside the brand, observing the twists and turns of its evolutionary journey. Keeping an eye on developments gives a good understanding of what the brand stands for, what drives the founder and the team and whether they have long-term goals and ambitions, or just want to make a quick profit on a specific trend. Rose-Marie Bravo, founder of RMS Beauty and internationally renowned make-up artist, has been in the beauty game for a long while and her drive and ambition haven’t diminished at all. When she talks about the products or demonstrates product application techniques on social media, you can’t but feel her passion for what she does, coupled with the bright spark in her eyes.
RMS Beauty had a cleansing coconut oil balm that quickly won over many and helped the brand get established. When Kakadu Evening Beauty Elixir was added to the range, my own skin was delighted and happily drunk that oil in the evenings - I woke up to the beautifully hydrated, glowing complexion in the morning. Simplicity coupled with quality ingredients and knowledgable formulation. I like the oil so much I still have an empty small bottle in a box in my bathroom.
Springtime brought news that RMS was expanding its skincare offering - Rose-Marie has always advocated looking after your skin first and foremost - and launching Kakadu Beauty Oil, SuperSerum Hydrating Mist and Kakadu Luxe Cream for the face.
RMS Kakadu Beauty Oil, 30ml, £61
A potent blend of nourishing oils that are certified “kind to biome”, this RMS face oil promises to balance & protect skin, while improving its texture and prepping skin for make-up application. It will also help skin look more radiant & feel better hydrated.
Apply 2-3 drops to the slightly damp skin after cleansing and let the oil sink in, while you massage it in (omit eye area), extending application to your neck and upper chest, with gentle, circular & upward motion. I tested it as part of my morning skincare routine, following up with make-up application, and it left my skin happy after the simple cleanse - tone -oil three step routine. Good skincare routine doesn’t need to be complicated, you want it to serve your skin’s needs in the moment in time.
The original RMS Beauty Oil you might have been familiar with has been updated and brought in step with scientific advances, as well as addition of ingredients like Kakadu Plum, known for its high Vitamin C content, which will help boost skin’s natural radiance, if its been lacking. Another powerful ingredient is the proprietary blend of adaptogenic herbs that help skin be in a contented balance. And if you want to take a deeper dive into the full ingredient list you can find it here. My skin absorbed the oil quickly and felt aptly nourished throughout the day, without the need to apply anything else - and bear in mind that the weather in London remains temperamental and not always spring-like, with onslaught of cold wind gushes. The oil sinks into the skin quickly and leaves it ready for make-up application, with no greasy residue, so your morning skincare routine coupled with make-up application might become a little bit quicker & more enjoyable. Thumbs up for this face oil formula update, but I do prefer the feel and the look of the original version - call me nostalgic .)
RMS SuperSerum Hydrating Mist, 30ml, £39
I can honestly say straight away that out of the three new RMS skincare products THIS one is my favourite. Maybe it’s the finest possible mist that comforts both skin and senses through its finery. Or maybe it’s the synergy of ingredients. Whatever it is in combination, it’s a comforting, skin-loving mist that you can use as a toner or as a skin refresh through the day - or pointedly apply it when you are standing or sitting next to someone on the tube whose smell is most off-putting. Rose-Marie recently shared a great tip of her own on how to enhance the newly launched bronzer, prior to application, with the help of this face mist - look it up online, it really is a cool tip!
Powered by GlowPlex™with Niacinamide and Quinoa Seed Extract and Pea Extract peptides the mist smooths, firms and brightens up skin tone. Once again there is Kakadu Plum in the formula, as well as mineral-Infused Sea Water, wild-crafted Buriti Oil (one of RMS Beauty star ingredients from brand’s early days), and RMS proprietary Adaptogenic Herbal Blend together balance & refresh the skin when needed. What’s quite easy on the eye is mist’s bi-phase formula, which you can glimpse before shaking the bottle up prior to application. Like Free & True Milk + Tansy bi-phase essence that I featured in my “March Newness” post, which you can see here, bi-phase toners and mists are having a moment in the spotlight - I remember Lancome’s bi-phase eye make-up remover that my mother used in the 90s. Time doesn’t stand still and technological and ingredient advances allow brands to innovate and improve on past formulas and ideas, creating products that are as enjoyable to use, as they are to look at through the glass packaging.
While I don’t believe that toners are a ‘must-have’ element of regular skincare routine, I use toning mists to refresh the skin or to help me focus while working, as well as on train/car and plane journeys. You need to shake the RMS glass bottle thoroughly before spraying the mist all over your face (don’t forget to close the eyes) or you can spray the product into the palm of your hand and then gently pat it all over or on specific area of the face, neck or upper chest. This face mist won’t “move or smudge” your make-up, when you mist your face during the day or if you skin feels flushed or dehydrated by office air-conditioning. It might even help you feel calmer in the driver’s seat, when other people driving makes you mad. When waiting at the red light, instead of letting it rip, close your eyes for a second, mist your face and think how lucky you are to draw comfort through skincare and gentle scent, rather than wasting nervous cells on a bad or rude driver.
RMS Kakadu Luxe Cream, 50ml, £53
This rich, yet silky cream feels cloud-like on the skin, and aims to nourish your skin with abundant indulgence. Powered by skin-firming GlowPlex™ that I mentioned earlier and yes, Kakadu Plum as well, the cream is fragrance-free, which actually makes you appreciate it for its texture and smoothing effect it has on the skin. In addition to enhancing or improving skin’s radiance, if yours has been lacking, this cream is full of antioxidants and further enhanced by Artichoke Extract and Shea Butter that my skin particularly appreciated after a blisteringly windy walk on the sea shores in not particularly warm weather a couple of weeks ago.
My next turn of phrase might make you frown, but I would say that this RMS moisturiser might be perfect alternative to a Nivea moisturiser, that surprisingly or not, many women I know, of various ages, nationalities and skin types, still rate very highly when it comes to their regular skincare routine. In this case you have a formula with well-researched, good quality ingredients that takes into account technological advances & makes your skin feel encapsulated in a gentle caress that leaves behind a feeling of nourishment. Sleek, modern packaging sits comfortably in your hand or on your bathroom shelf, giving off cosy familiarity vibe. A little goes a long way and applying foundation afterwards, without any further prep or primer application, feels efficient, with fingers or brush gliding over the face perfectly. My other tip would be to apply it to your upper chest, if you are wearing an off the shoulder dress or top. Dust with Living Luminiser or bronzer straight after, and it will add confidence & elegance to your overall appearance. Who would have thought that a new moisturising cream will feel intimately familiar after only a couple days of applying it to the skin & make me want to reach for it when skin needs that extra layer of nourishment?!
Something for the body that looks pale, but longs not to be: Bodyologist Summer Dew Customisable self-tanning drops
Now, I have been a sun lover since my childhood, whether turning my baby face towards the sun during my family holidays at the country house or when going on an extended summer vacation with my parents or grandparents to Jurmala (I was lucky to spend two summer months there, first with my grandparents, then with my parents - I miss the blissful innocence of that time, as well as the absence of vast crowds, the sandy dunes, the cold swims and the beauty of nature, as well as the joy of sometimes digging up amber out of the sand, while watching the seagulls parade on the water’s edge like models or guardians of the universe…
I still sunbathe at every opportunity, often applying children’s SPF products that offer broad protection from the harmful rays by combining UVA and UVB, but summer tan unfortunately doesn’t last all year long and my family winter holidays aren’t usually spent in hot climates. So what to do, if you have no desire to use a sunbed - something I never actually did, thank god for that prudence! That’s where Bodyologist clever self-tanning drops come in handy - I promised to tell you about them in my previous newness post, so here we go!
Those smart tanning drops allow you to have gently sun-kissed glow all year round, if you so fancy. A case of getting healthy-looking skin with a degree of radiance and none of the negatives that one can get from sun rays. Just mix the drops with your usual body lotion or cream ( you can mix it with the body oil, but I haven’t tried that combination myself, so can’t vouch for efficacy of this combination) & wait a few hours for the tan to develop. The more drops you will add, the more intense your colour will be, so go easy to start with!
Perfume-free & enriched with hyaluronic acid and glycerin, Summer Dew drops encapsulate skin moisture-binding properties & can help improve elasticity, depending on what body care product you combine the drops with. Bodyologist body care is one of the most indulgent and comprehensive bodycare ranges I have tried in the last couple of years, so I am hoping UK beauty retailers will wake up from slumber and start selling it in the UK.
Mix a few drops of Summer Dew with your chosen body care product in the palm of your hand and apply the product evenly all over your body, including the neck. Color development will begin to be seen within two to four hours of application, depending on the chemistry with your skin and will build up gradually, so repeat the process in the following days, if you want a more intense colour. Skin tones are different, so the dosage is an individual guide and can vary from person to person. You will get the best result by cleansing and exfoliating the skin before applying the product - that is really the golden rule for a good tan, natural or self-tanning. And don’t forget to wash your hands really well with the soap after you finish the application, so they won’t turn into an obvious giveaway, making you the butt of jokes from family, friends or colleagues .)
Let the product dry completely before putting on clothes, as the product can otherwise cause stains on clothes or other textiles.
Summer Dew Drops don’t contain SPF and therefore don’t protect skin against sunburn, but it will definitely adds natural colour to pale skin, while also moisturising it, helping stay supple and minimising the negative impact of sun rays ( we need sunshine to be happy and to have plenty of Vitamin D in our bodies that we produce naturally, but regular exposure to strong sunshine can lead to faster ageing of the skin or in the worst case scenario, to skin cancer).
If your body is in need of calm and balance: “SOOTHE” by Nahid de Belgeonne
No matter how many apps, products or gadgets are being launched within the wellness/wellbeing marketplace, we all seem to be constantly stressed or talking about our stress levels. We all live in a very unpredictable and unsettled world, grappling with a multitude of problems (some of them self-inflicted), while leading increasingly sedatery lifestyles, spending too much time online / glued to our phone screens, eating on the go and being very unkind to our minds and bodies. I have stopped watching the news lately, choosing to read them instead via different news outlets, as the negativity, fear and death that pours off the screen makes one lose the will to live.
, a fellow Substack writer (also known as “the nervous system whisperer”), recently published her first book, based on years of personal and professional experience. She works with clients in person and online as a Somatic Movement Educator, guiding humankind through breath and movement to a calmer state. Part One of the book covers body, breath, touch, move, rest, nourishment, connection, as well as offers insights into the principles of Soothe Programme. Part Two focusses of daily practises that you can incorporate into your day, from the moment you wake up through to midday and evening. Full of personal stories & lots of helpful tips, as well as physical exercises and stretches, just reading the book will place you in a calmer state. Put what you learn from the book into practise and I am sure your body will gratefully reciprocate in kind with a calmer state of mind no matter the circumstances.Facial serum for you that your teen might be tempted to borrow ( and you can safely share, knowing it’s age-appropriate ): Emma Lewisham Supernatural Face Serum with live skin probiotic, 2 x 15ml combination
One of the subjects that we touched on with Emma Lewisham when we met in person was children, as we are both mothers. Emma’s daughter is younger than mine, so I did tell her how angry I get with the brands & retailers that take liberties or rather lack responsibility or accountability when selling children and young adults products that are not age-appropriate. As a mother I take my responsibility when it comes to looking after my children’s skin as seriously, as making sure they are healthy, fit, happy and thoughtful human beings. My son and daughter understand importance of looking after their skin, but they also know that while good quality products for their skin are vital, their routine should be as simple as A, B, C at this stage - cleanser, gentle scrub (once or twice a week) & moisturiser when it comes to their faces and nothing else, thank you very much beauty industry! Yet my daughter in particular is constantly tempted by the products her friends tell her they use or beauty retailers suggest to teen girls.
I have been known to tell the brand or sales staff at retailers like Sephora or SpaceNK that selling retinol or ‘anti-ageing’ products to teens is fundamentally wrong. Emma agreed with me, adding that she always takes time and puts effort into not only giving accurate descriptions of her products, but making sure to train staff at retailers around the world, that carry her skincare brand, so they understand the ethos of the brand, each product and can answer customer questions and address skin concerns correctly.
This particular face serum is one of brand’s best-sellers for a good reason - it is effective at keeping blemishes at bay or reducing them. It also has cool packaging and one of the ingredients comes packaged separately, so you only insert it into the serum packaging and start using it when you are ready. Interestingly, this blemish serum works well for teens, whose skin is often prone to breakouts due to their natural hormonal fluctuations that accompany puberty. Emma very kindly and thoughtfully sent me this particular serum for my godson to try, as he has been prone to skin breakouts and it’s something that while isn’t dramatic, he is conscious of. It’s not just the girls who worry or pay attention to their skin - boys are known to look in the mirror and search for solutions on TikTok as well.
The price of this blemish serum is £68 (for 2 x 15 ml vials that you need to mix together before applying to the skin) and it should last you for a month. Is that accessibly priced if you compare to say Cera Vie or Inkey List - I pose question in the context of teen, not grown-up skin. No, it is not, but while CeraVe is a mass produced product that teens seem to be keen on and many dermatologists seem to be recommending (how many disclose brands with which they are affiliated to teen parents?) I think it’s better to buy a more expensive, but effective skincare product with scientifically proven ingredients and formulation with specific skin needs in mind than use too many cheaper ones that can potentially complicated existing skin problems, rather than help resolve them. Ultimately the answer to this is not linear, but it’s good to have more options for teen skin, rather than for teens to use products that weren’t developed & tested with their specific skin needs/issues in mind.
Based on my own experience with CeraVe it in the past it is not the brand or product I would recommend or purchase for my own children. I deem it harsh for their skin and know of enough examples when its use has exacerbated the problem with dry & hormonal young skin. Having used multiple Emma Lewisham products I know that they deliver visible results for the skin (yes, it is subjective and what works for one face, won’t necessarily work for another), but I place trust in certain brands I know, work or directly engage with when I have questions and am happy to recommend them based on my own experience with them. Whether you decided to try the product is another story. Everyone’s ‘price tolerance’ is different, some people don’t bat an eyelid paying £500 for the 50ml bottle of the new Augustinu’s Bader retinol serum, others think that £10-£20 pounds is the maximum spend on their skincare product. That’s the beauty of choice and testament that we are as unique as our choices when it comes to skincare.
So what makes this Emma Lewisham serum special? Supernatural Blemish Face Serum delivers a daily dose of patented live probiotic, Micrococcus luteus Q24 that was discovered on healthy human skin. This specialised strain naturally lives on and supports our skin, with scientific research demonstrating its ability to inhibit pathogenic bacteria, including C. acnes – a key factor in the development of blemishes. This serum delivers >235 million live probiotic cells per dose and is proven to be alive and active after two years – meeting the true definition of a probiotic.
After you assemble this serum for the first time - yes, freshness requires that extra step - tap the bottle against the hard surface to make sure the formulation settles and pumps out smoothly and effectively. Then you twist and turn each side, mix two solutions in the palm of your hand and apply to your face, morning or evening, or both. This serum combines multiple ingredients, including bio-identical and natural ones, that work harmoniously to help balance the skin and keep it in check, calming inflammation down and preventing blemishes from occurring. I don’t get blemishes often - full disclosure - and didn’t get them as a teenager, but I do get them very occasionally. Using this serum helped to keep my skin clear, especially during that time of the month when a sudden blemish or red spot can suddenly appear on the skin. Application is pleasant and the serum itself feels cooling and pleasantly soothing on the skin.
Another important element of this serum is that its bio-active ingredients work together with the skin and trigger cellular responses that help to decrease the process of inflammation and bring skin back to balance with regular use. Pro, like pre and post biotics have been getting more and more spotlight from both scientists, beauty and supplement brands, as well as gut specialists and nutritionists and there is yet so much to learn about their impact on our bodies, inside and out. With teenagers and women of various ages (men to a lesser degree) not only feeling the impact of hormones on their mood, but seeing the signs of roller coasting on the skin, serums such as this one do help to improve the appearance of the skin, giving the mind a bit more calm as well, as when we have skin breakouts we don’t rejoice and are conscious of it, whether we cover them with stickers, concealers or tints/foundations. Lifestyle choices go hand in hand with skincare choices, so paying attention to what you consume internally and externally is always important, irrespective of age.
Something to watch: SHOGUN on Disney +
Based on best-selling book by James Clavell, Disney + has truly outdone itself with this lavish series - 1980s mini series pales in comparison - which pays close attention to details, no matter how seemingly tiny. Set in Japan in 1600 at the dawn of the defining war, it tells the story of the English pilot (sailor) John Blackthorn whose ship crashes off course in Japan & leads him on an extraordinary & unlikely journey for a white Westerner in Japan. He ends up in the court of powerful Samurai Lord Toranaga (played by esteemed Japanese actor Hiroyuki Sanada, who not only produced this series with Disney, but taught Tom Cruise & Keanu Reeves the finer details of Japanese culture for their respective roles in “The Last Samurai” and “47 Ronin” ), who is fighting for his own survival along the way. An alliance will be formed to the dismay of many between a noble Japanese warlord and white sailor the likes of which haven’t gone down in history before or after.
With stunning scenery & extraordinary costumes the series takes the viewer on the most exhilarating & unpredictable journey of historic significance. Power and corruption, love and etiquette, honour and violence will collide and leave you speechless in anticipation - I am yet to watch the final two episodes, as Disney only releases one episode per week. I also want to mention actress Anna Sawai (who you might already know, if you watched “Pachinko”), whose character Lady Mariko plays a significant role at the court of Lord Toranaga, as well as Tokuma Hishioka, who is playing Lord Toranaga’s top General and best friend - which made watching a truly dramatic implosion between the two men in one of the latter episodes very hard, surprising and reducing me to tears. A memorable and authentic series that’s worth inviting your teens to watch alongside you.
Galina’s Book Shelf: “Real Americans” by Rachel Khong (published in the UK on April 30th)
I haven’t read Rachel’s best-seller “Goodbye Vitamin’’, but have read her articles in magazines & last month was lucky to be sent advance copy of her new book “Real Americans” to be published in the U.K. at the end of this month. Even though it’s almost 400 pages long, it took me on such a whirlwind journey, I have spent several evenings glued to it, reading late into the night. Identity & family ties, genetics & loyalty, humanity & pragmatism. A story of three generations & people searching for their place & meaning in the world. What does it mean to be a real Chinese or a real American? Are you the result of your family’s past mistakes or choices or can you forge your own path & identity? Beautiful, human, relatable writing & characters with whom you bond page after page. I can’t a recommend this book highly enough because even though I couldn’t fully predict the ending almost till the last page, it left me satisfied, yet already longing for more. This is something that separates a one book wonder from the book that you will come to re-read every few years. Sad & uplifting, this book will teach you many humble lessons and might even put your own life choices into perspective.
And this my dear reader and subscriber brings us to the end of April Newness. As I observe rain yet again pounding the windows, I am reminded of the positive power of daily gratitude practise and appreciating of the small things. Lucky me, sitting at my desk right now, doing the final edits of the post, as I could have been dashing between meetings & getting soaked to the bine. Even of grey or gloomy days we have the power to change our mindset from minus to plus - I think this is one of the many superpowers we humans have, yet at times forget to put to good use.
Let me know if something particular resonated, or if you want me to write more (or less) about something. This is a place for dialogue and exchanges of opinion, so whatever might be on your mind, don’t be shy about reaching out or leaving a comment below.
I love a good coffee shop and thank you for the book recommendation. Always looking for new books to read (rather than my go to of a good thriller or Scandi Noir).